I still didn’t get all the parts for propulsion – I’ve got problem to find an old style stuffing box, and I was still waiting for SS tubing, for cutlass bearing. I also didn’t get the hydraulic hoses for the steering system. It was a major delay this month. In the meantime I completed some other tasks – also very important – that must be done before launching. The weather was great; I would even say that was too great – the temperature was around 30C almost every day.

It was very hot, and I had to work under cockpit area. I did glassing of the mahogany block for the rudder stuffing box. Next I have removed the entire sandwich core cell, and bounded the block directly to the outer skin of the hull. The layer of fiberglass covered the block and was overlapping with the existing inner skin of the hull. I also installed a long white oak board, as a support for the hydraulic steering cylinder. On the upper right corner the wet exhaust hose is already connected to the exhaust transom flange.

Mahogeny block for rudder stuffing box.

Support bord for steering cylinder.

This month I painted the SeaGoat. I painted one coat of antifouling, with edge 4 inches over the WL. The top part over the WL was painted in white. I also added a long blue stripe along the WL. Painting wasn’t so easy. When I was working with the white paint, the hull was very hot so the paint dried too quickly, and I didn’t get the desired shiny surface – perhaps I will have to fix it – and paint once again later on. To paint the blue stripe I used a 3M plastic masking tape. After removing the masking tape I found out that the blue edge is not sharp, as I expected, but was frayed. In many places the blue paint went under the masking tape. I had to apply the masking tape once again, approximately 0.25” apart from the current edge. This time I paid special attention ensuring that the tape was bonded to the surface. Now the final effect is almost professional, and I was satisfied with that. Painting the antifouling was much easier, but a black color wasn’t nice to work with. Finally – the SeaGoat looks much nicer now.

SeaGoat new look.

Bow view.

She is beamy.

Next I was making all missing chaineplates. I based the calculation on wire strengths, and decided to use for the main outer chaineplates SS 2.5” wide and 0.5” thick. I didn’t know how to bend these bars to match the hull shape. I was thinking about heating the bars up and bending using templates, but it seemed to be too complicated. The bar was over four feet long, and I tried to bend it cold, using boat cradles as a big strong vise. During the first trial of the first bend, applying a lot of force, I found out that it is possible. I also found out that 2.5”x0.5” bar it was absolutely maximum what I was able to do by hand.

I was lucky I've found good support.

Almost done.

Dry fit - it looks OK.

I didn’t have a choice, and I had to start working with fiberglass again. I had to do glassing on all the bulkheads for the deck, and the cabin structure. It took me one entire day to finish this sticky job. I also added foam gaskets to all my pilothouse windows.

Now bulkheads and cabin structure are permanently connected.

Closed cell - foam gasket.

Starting with installation, I’ve assembled the wet exhaust system. It was done using a special soft wall 3” I.D. marine exhaust hose with fiberglass elbows, and a heavy-duty hose clamps. I’ve already installed the exhaust transom flange, and I decided to add a heavy-duty check valve as well. It wasn’t too complicated to find the simplest path for the hose from the engine compartment to the transom

Exhaust puzzles.

Installed check valve.

Exhaust transom flange.

I spent also a lot of time to find out of what is the best option to install the base stanchion – it must be strong and solid. Using a wood screw to fix bases, to the gunwale wasn’t the right option. I decided to fabricate a special clamp bracket, bolted to the hull. Details are on the Parts are not shiny yet – they’re to be electro polished later.

Special U bracket and gunwale opening.

Bracket sits in.

Dry fit of base.

Dry fit complete assembly.

It is how it looks like from outside. Just to clean and add the bolts